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'''Alpski stil''' u tehničkom smislu predstavlja penjanje na visoke planine, onakve kakve su u [[Alpe|Alpama]]. NeOvaj stil je u suprotnosti sa [[ekspedicioni stil|sveobuhvatnim postojiekspedicionim pisanastilom]] definicijapenjanja, alisa planinarskipodizanjem svijetstalne podrazumijevalinije slijedećeopskrbljenih karakteristike:kampova na planini, koji su stalno dostupni tokom trajanja ekspedicije. Alpski stil je odbacio fiksiranu užad, nosače i korištenje boca sa kisikom, a penjač sa sobom nosi sve što mu potrebno pri usponu.<ref name="Alpski stilSolesPowers2003">{{Citecite book|last1=Soles|first1=Clyde|last2=Powers|first2=Phil|title=Climbing: webExpedition Planning|url=https://explorerswebbooks.google.com/2019/02/14/sobooks?id=kHlA-what-exactly-is-alpine-style/ R9klR8C|titleyear=2003|publisher=The Šta je zapravo Alpski stilMountaineers Books|workisbn=xplorersweb.com 978- 14.02.2019 0-89886-770-1|accessdatepage= 13. 11. 202027}}</ref>
Ne postoji pisana definicija, ali [[Planinarstvo|planinarski]] svijet podrazumijeva slijedeće karakteristike:<ref name="Alpski stil">{{Cite web |url=https://explorersweb.com/2019/02/14/so-what-exactly-is-alpine-style/ |title= Šta je zapravo Alpski stil |work=xplorersweb.com - 14.02.2019 |accessdate= 13. 11. 2020}}</ref>
* mali tim sa ne više od dva ili tri penjača
* na vrh se kreće iz podnožja planine
* ako se bivakuje, to se radi na putu do vrha
* dodatni kisik se ne koristi<ref name="Habeel">{{Cite web |url=https://sweclimber.wordpress.com/climbing/stories/reinhold-messner/rm-hidden-peak/ |title= Uvođenje alpskog stila u Himalaje |work=wordpress.com |accessdate= 13. 11. 2020}}</ref>
Dio penjača smatra da je ovakav stil više ideal nego realnost.
penjači an [[Alpinizam|alpinistički]] način penjanja, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter and equipment as one climbs,<ref name=SolesPowers2003>{{cite book|last1=Soles|first1=Clyde|last2=Powers|first2=Phil|title=Climbing: Expedition Planning|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=kHlA-R9klR8C|year=2003|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-0-89886-770-1|page=27}}</ref> u suprotnosti sa [[ekspedicioni stil|sveobuhvatnim]] načinom planinarenja which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style climbing means the refusal of [[fixed ropes]], high-altitude porters, supplemental [[Bottled oxygen (climbing)|oxygen]] and [[portable hyperbaric bag]].
==Popularnost==
Ovaj stil postao je popularan kada su se 1975. godine [[Reinhold Messner]] i [[Peter Habeler]] u cjelosti ispenjali na [[Gasherbrum I]], u skladu sa navedenim karakteristikama alpskog stila.<ref name="Habeeler">{{Cite web |url=https://sweclimber.wordpress.com/climbing/stories/reinhold-messner/rm-hidden-peak/ |title= Uvođenje alpskog stila u Himalaje |work=wordpress.com - 14.02.2019 |accessdate= 13. 11. 2020}}</ref> Austrijski alpinista [[Hermann Buhl]] svoj završni dio uspješnog uspona na [[Broad Peak]], u dužini 1.300 metara izveo je u Alpskom stilu. Poljski penjač [[Wojciech Kurtyka]] počeo je ovaj stil koristiti kod uspona na visoke planine 1972. godine (Akher Tsagh (7017 m) i Kohe Tez (7015 m)).
Mnogi alpski stil smatraju estetski čistu formu alpinizma kojoj svi penjači mogu samo da streme, dok je stvarni način penjanja ispod ovog nivoa.<ref name=SolesPowers2003/> Ovaj stil postao je popularan This style became well-known and popular with [[Reinhold Messner]], when he and [[Peter Habeler]] climbed [[Gasherbrum I]] (K5) without oxygen equipment in 1975. Earlier, [[Wojciech Kurtyka]] began alpine-style climbing at high altitudes (1972 - Akher Tsagh (7017 m) and Kohe Tez (7015 m)). It was [[Hermann Buhl]]'s idea to demonstrate alpine style in the [[Karakoram]] at the successful Austrian [[Broad Peak]] expedition in 1957; in pure alpine style the members of this expedition later climbed [[Skil Brum]] ([[Marcus Schmuck]] and [[Fritz Wintersteller]]) and approached [[Chogolisa]] ([[Hermann Buhl]] and [[Kurt Diemberger]]).
Mnogi alpski stil smatraju estetski čistu formu alpinizma kojoj svi penjači mogu samo da streme, dok je stvarni način penjanja ispod ovog nivoa.<ref name=SolesPowers2003/>.
== Prednosti i nedostaci ==
Prednost ovog stila je mnogo kraće vrijeme provedeno na ruti, čime se umanjuju objektivne opasnosti, kao što su lavine (snijega, leda i pomiješano) i olujno nevrijeme.
Osnovni nedostaci penjanja u alpskom stilu se odnose na nedovoljno vrijeme prilagođavanja sredini i nadmorskoj visini. Veliki problem je i izbor mjesta bivakovanja, jer u alpskom stilu uglavnom bivakuje na mjestu gdje se zatekne.
==Benefits==
The benefits of alpine style include spending much less time on the route, thereby reducing objective dangers such as [[avalanche]]s or [[blizzard]]s. This can be a major factor on routes with ice fields full of blocks of ice hundreds of feet tall which could fall at any time. Snow and icy conditions often change over the course of a day forcing climbing parties to climb in the early hours before the sun melts the snow or ice making it unsuitable and more susceptible to avalanche. This tendency to climb in the morning has led to the term "Alpine Start". An "Alpine Start" is an early start that ranges from starting at 11:00pm of the night before on long routes, to not long before sunrise for shorter routes or faster parties. An "Alpine Start" must begin in the dark.
==Challenges==
The problems encountered while alpine style climbing are related to lack of support and potentially the lack of [[Effects of high altitude on humans|acclimatization]] associated with spending less time at very high altitudes. Without fixed ropes to retreat down in case of emergency, or a lower camp to return to, the commitment of alpine style is greater than expedition style in terms of the choice to ascend or descend. A climbing group caught at a point where conditions do not allow further ascent must consider other options such as an unplanned [[bivouac shelter|bivouac]] (perhaps without the appropriate gear), [[rappel]]s (leaving multiple pieces of [[Climbing protection|protection]] behind), or moving to another route from their current position (perhaps without adequate knowledge of an alternative route). However, alpine style often is cheaper and faster for those on a budget, as alpine style climbing typically involves less equipment, and eliminates the need to hire porters.
== Reference ==
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